Huayna Potosi - Snow-capped peaks, the height of 6,088 meters in 25 kilometers north of the capital city of Bolivia, La Paz, reputed to be one of the lightest shestitysyachnikov in the world and it attracts travel-lovers, not burdened by long years of grueling workouts.
in carnival Sunday afternoon the doors of many travel agencies La Paz were closed for a granary castle, and the rest as the girls call back to someone and in response to the joyful shouts of drunks in the tube, heavy sigh - tomorrow can impossible, the next day too, only on Wednesday, after the holidays. And when I was quite desperate and prepared to wait for the carnival in front of me was a paper a piece of "Tomorrow. Climbing the Wianno Potosi 2 days / 1 night. Confirmed, that means there are willing and once a person goes to a net profit agency costs it minimal - yes food equipment rental, and the standard price of 100 bucks I was completely arranged.
By this time I was in La Paz on height of three and a half miles for 5 days and symptoms of altitude sickness - headache, shortness of breath and wobbly gait, did not suffer, however, ever.
On Next morning, he met an American from Florida, Todd and Bolivian tour guide, Alex, drove to a warehouse agency, where after a brief try- received the following - waterproof jacket and pants, fleece mask with slits for eyes and nose a la bank robber or a German porn star, gloves Warm water repellant to the elbow, boots, crampons, ice ax, harness, sleeping bags and backpacks to move all this junk. Sunglasses, flashlight and underwear was his own, though all this to you, too, can give absolutely free of charge. Full service.
Along the way, bought a chocolate Nestle and water, and got to 10-30 by taxi at 4700 meters to the base camp - poluotaplivaemoy concrete box with unpretentious dining room, several private rooms and shared a bedroom with mattresses on the floor on the second floor. On the way, guide constantly drank Pepsi apparently on the eve of the carnival did not pass without leaving a trace:)
Plan ascent was followed - After lunch to advance in the intermediate camp at an altitude of 5,130 meters, where at 1 am and leave by 7 am to reach the top, half an hour in the photo, moaning, sighing, ritually pee and back, where the base camp at 11 am will be waiting taxi to La Paz.
winter months are June to August - the best time for climbing Huayna Potosi, where despite the dog's cold weather is stable with no wind, rain and snow, but now the time was the most problematic both theoretically and practically, just a week ago, La Paz has undergone the strongest flood that, from time to time, is still going on and at lunch went to torrential rain.
After hours of waiting decided to guide the intermediate camp is now not to go, and quick Start with the base early, at 11 pm, and leg it this way to the top in 8 hours of 1400 meters inclines. This idea I just do not like, but the icy rain outside wall of the desire to soak 2,5 hours did not cause, in addition to jump on the slippery stones was unsafe.
By 4 o'clock the rain stopped, but the owners have already paid money for overnight tours, tour guide with a hangover was reluctant to go, and we have too, so stayed the night at base camp. It was a big mistake.
area around the base camp rather nice with a huge glacier, numerous lakes and snow-capped surrounding peaks.
After a short sleep at 11 pm, vmazav a glass of boiled water with coca leaves with cookies, moved to the intermediate camp. A narrow trail alternated piles of piled stones, you could walk in a normal shoe - Sneakers or boots. Top Lilo and dogs.
On the way back, when it was light, I wondered how it was possible at night under dim light Lantern jump on the slippery rocks in torrential rain with huge backpacks and never fall down. Todd broke, issued by the agency, a flashlight, which repaired for half an hour by tapping on the ice pick, clean the glass and taking out the glove-inserting batteries.
2,5 hours seemed an interim camp of 5130 meters, a stone hut with walls painted by previous climbers were even two blank labels in Russian. Basically it all comes down to the "most severe test in life, thought dead, but I got it was cool." Sleepy Austrian said her friend with a guide went to conquer the peak 10 minutes ago.
Vmazav another glass of boiled water with coca leaves set off at 2 am, dressed up all equipment, including cats on shoes, hence the to the top only in deep snow. After 100 meters of heavy rain gave way to the wall snowfall, backpacks with needlessly taken 1.5-liter bottles of water covered thick cap of snow. From time to time his feet sank to his waist, on each side trails could be seen bottomless ice crevices, I flew cat three times, was broken buckle, the site in 25 meters of vertical snow wall overcame, stuck an ice pick and hanging on his toes cats.
Strong Fatigue was not felt, but was never enough oxygen to breathe like a fish out of water, walked on the fresh snow is very slow, is evident from graphics embossing, guide constantly urged, and three pants, three jackets and two wool hats are not allowed to perish from cold.
Clouds with rain and snow were far down, away twinkling lights of La Paz, is gradually beginning to dawn.
rise lasted for 8 hours, 7 am to dawn came up to 5,850 feet, encountering along the way coming down with an Austrian guide, they refused to go higher.
to the summit was within reach, a straight lift of 200 meters in height, but the guide said that the fresh snow to go straight is extremely dangerous because of possible avalanche, it is necessary to go round, steadily upward, and the two hour in one direction only, and in 11 taxis waiting for us in La Paz.
Top (brown in the distance), was perfectly normal and nothing out of themselves could not imagine just another 200 meters up. I expressed the view that a paid 200 bucks for two, a taxi can wait, but the guide, female, began to ship that with the sunrise increases the risk of melting snow and avalanches, so the need to return. Us by the time all the procedures nastoeblo and desire to go another 2 hours and then down, no no, and we decided to turn.
Maybe for the better, for reaching the intermediate camp 5130 got into naletevshy fog with rain, visibility was reduced to 5 meters down after 2-3 hours it would be quite unsafe.
Approaching taxi brought two Japanese in shorts and T-shirts and tour guide Alex forthcoming regular night ascent with tourists to the summit, we are back in La Paz and lay down some sleep at night.
